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POKER TALK Tournament Structures

POKER TALK

LouBdub

Bronze Bettor
Below are three main structures:
T25 / T100 / T500

Save and shared for future reference using @BGinGA structures.

———————————————

T25


I highly recommend the following 400-chip set for a 10-player T25-base tournament:

120 x T25
120 x T100
50 x T500
75 x T1000 (includes 15x for T25 and t100 color-ups)
35 x T5000 (includes 5x for T500 color-ups, plus 30 extras to be used for stacks > 10K and re-buys/add-ons)
--------------
400 chips

This set supports 10 starting stacks from 5K up to 25K (12/12/5/6/x), includes sufficient chips for color-ups, and has enough T5000 chips to support 4xT5000 re-buys for 20K events. Stack breakdowns of 8/8/6/6/2 (or 8/8/4/7/2) are sub-optimal for single-table events, as they tend to promote tighter play, while also causing potential confusion and time-wastimg via excessive change-making. In addition, you need fewer T500 chips (never need more than 1 per bet) and more T1000 chips towards the middle and end of the event (after they replace the T100 as the workhorse chip). The extra chips are well-worth the cost to ensure smooth game play.

Sounds like you have a decent grasp already on how to color-up chips. Either the race-off or round-up method is fine (I prefer the latter, as it's faster and arguably more fair).

These are commonly used single-table payouts for friendly home games:
9-10 players: pays 3 places --50%-30%-20%, or 55%-30%-15%, or 60%-30%-10%
6-8 players: pays 2 places -- 60%-40%, or 65%-35%, or 70%-30%
5 or fewer: pays 1 place -- 100% WTA

Regarding blind structure and blind times, it all depends on how long you want your event to last. Every tournement will typically end around the time that there are a total of 20 big blinds in play on the table. If you have 10 players with 20K stacks, that means that there is 200K in chips in play, so the event should generally end no later than the 5000/10000blind level (which also means that T1000 chips will never get colored-up, as they are still needed prior to that time).

The typical re-buy rate for a 200BB event is 25%-33%, or 2-4 players in a 10-player field. Smaller starting stacks (or fast/aggressive blind structures) can increase the re-buy ratio.

Re-buys can be allowed for any amount of time, but realistically, they start losing value as the blinds get larger. I generally don't offer re-buys that are smaller than 20BB at the time of purchase, and usually set a cut-off at between 25BB-40BB.

The following blind structure begins each player with 200 Big Blinds (relatively deep), and has consistent blind increases that range from 33% to 50%, averaging 40%::

L1 50/100
L2 75/150
L3 100/200
L4 150/300
remove T25 chips
L5 200/400
L6 300/600 (optional end re-buys - 33BB)
L7 400/800
L8 600/1200
break (optional end re-buys - 17BB)
L9 800/1600
L10 1100/2200
L11 1500/3000
L12 2000/4000
remove T100/T500 chips
L13 3000/6000
L14 4000/8000 *** typical EOT
L15 6000/12000
L16 8000/16000
L17 10000/20000

So the typical tournament will last no longer than 14-15 blind levels. The assigned blind level times will dicate how long the tournament will last:

15 minute blinds = 3:40 hours plus breaks
20 minute levels = 4:50 hours plus breaks
25 minute levels = 6:00 hours plus breaks

Nothing wrong with blind level times that aren't in increments of 5, either -- if you want the event to last around 4+ hours, use 17 or 18 minute levels.

Note that your structure also finishes in around 14 blind levels. The biggest differences between your structure and the one above is that your structure a) doubles the blinds with a 100% increase right out of the gate, cutting stacks in half in just 15 or 20 minutes, and b) contains a wider range of blind increases -- 25% to 67%, excluding that early 100% jump --averaging over 51% (vs just 40%).
 
T100


For a T100-base set using antes (BB or otherwise), a 15/5/6/x starting stack is superior to the smaller 10/4/7/x version (which works fine for no-ante events).

For 8 players with T30k stacks (15/5/6/4, 150 or 300bb pending starting blinds), you'll need 256 chips:

120 x T100
40 x T500
60 x T1000 (includes 12x for T100 color-up)
36 x T5000 (includes 4x for T500 color-up)

Using 15/5/11/3 stacks (also T30k) bumps up the set to 280 chips:

120 x T100
40 x T500
90 x T1000 (includes 2x for T100 color-up)
30 x T5000 (includes 6x for T100/T500 color-ups)

In either case above, add additional T5000 chips if larger starting stacks and/or re-buys are desired.

A 400-chip set easily covers a 10-player event with larger starting stacks and re-buys:

150 x T100
50 x T500
110 x T1000
90 x T5000 (8x for color-ups and 52x extras)
 
T500

I love the simplistic 400-chip T500-base tournament set. All you need is a single rack of each denomination per table (so 400 chips for 10 players, 800 chips for 20, etc.), and it gets lots of those (usually) gorgeous upper denomination chips in play:

10 x T500
10 x T1000
7 x T5000
10 x T25000
------------
37 chips = T300K stacks

The extra 30 x T5000 chips color-up the T500/T1000 chips with perfect efficiency.

You can also withhold 4x T25K chips (10/10/7/6) to create smaller T200K starting stacks, allowing up to five re-buys with the extra 40x T25Ks. With 500/1000 opening blinds, it's 300bb to start or 200bb with re-buys. A single-table 300K event has three million chips in play.

Of course, starting stacks can always be smaller if desired (10/10/7 is just T50K), or anything between 50K and 300K stacks. It's a very versatile set, and it's generally pretty easy to top off existing larger T25-base sets by adding a few extra T5000s and T25Ks to gain the high-denom tourney option.


Below is a great blind schedule for T500-base sets, with blind increases mostly ranging between 33%-50%, averaging 39% overall.

It can be used for anything from a ten-player 2.5-hour T50K turbo (15-min levels) to a four-table 10-hour T300K marathon (30-min levels) and everything in-between -- simply by custom-tailoring the starting stack sizes, number of players, and blind level times to generate the desired length and style of event:

lvl sb bb
L1 500 1000
L2 500 1500
L3 1000 2000
L4 1500 3000
remove T500 chips
L5 2000 4000
L6 3000 6000
(optional end re-buys, 50bb)
L7 4000 8000
L8 6000 12000
L9 8000 16000
remove T1000 chips
(optional end re-buys, 19bb)
L10 10000 20000
L11 15000 30000
L12 20000 40000
L13 25000 50000 ** EOT 10x100K
L14 35000 70000 ** EOT 10x150K
remove T5000 chips (optional - requires 5x T100K chips or 20x T25K chips)
L15 50000 100000 ** EOT 10x200K (or 20xT100K)
L16 75000 150000 ** EOT 10x300K
L17 100000 200000 ** EOT 20x200K
L18 150000 300000 ** EOT 20x300K
L19 200000 400000 ** EOT 40x200K
L20 250000 500000 ** EOT 40x300K
L21 350000 700000
remove T25000 chips (requires 25x T100k chips)
L22 500000 1000000
L23 750000 1500000
 
Thanks for posting!

Is there a suggested level structure for the T100 with/without BBAs?
Give this a try :giggle:
IMG_1452.png
IMG_1453.png
 
Below are three main structures:
T25 / T100 / T500

Save and shared for future reference using @BGinGA structures.

———————————————

T25


I highly recommend the following 400-chip set for a 10-player T25-base tournament:

120 x T25
120 x T100
50 x T500
75 x T1000 (includes 15x for T25 and t100 color-ups)
35 x T5000 (includes 5x for T500 color-ups, plus 30 extras to be used for stacks > 10K and re-buys/add-ons)
--------------
400 chips

This set supports 10 starting stacks from 5K up to 25K (12/12/5/6/x), includes sufficient chips for color-ups, and has enough T5000 chips to support 4xT5000 re-buys for 20K events. Stack breakdowns of 8/8/6/6/2 (or 8/8/4/7/2) are sub-optimal for single-table events, as they tend to promote tighter play, while also causing potential confusion and time-wastimg via excessive change-making. In addition, you need fewer T500 chips (never need more than 1 per bet) and more T1000 chips towards the middle and end of the event (after they replace the T100 as the workhorse chip). The extra chips are well-worth the cost to ensure smooth game play.

Sounds like you have a decent grasp already on how to color-up chips. Either the race-off or round-up method is fine (I prefer the latter, as it's faster and arguably more fair).

These are commonly used single-table payouts for friendly home games:
9-10 players: pays 3 places --50%-30%-20%, or 55%-30%-15%, or 60%-30%-10%
6-8 players: pays 2 places -- 60%-40%, or 65%-35%, or 70%-30%
5 or fewer: pays 1 place -- 100% WTA

Regarding blind structure and blind times, it all depends on how long you want your event to last. Every tournement will typically end around the time that there are a total of 20 big blinds in play on the table. If you have 10 players with 20K stacks, that means that there is 200K in chips in play, so the event should generally end no later than the 5000/10000blind level (which also means that T1000 chips will never get colored-up, as they are still needed prior to that time).

The typical re-buy rate for a 200BB event is 25%-33%, or 2-4 players in a 10-player field. Smaller starting stacks (or fast/aggressive blind structures) can increase the re-buy ratio.

Re-buys can be allowed for any amount of time, but realistically, they start losing value as the blinds get larger. I generally don't offer re-buys that are smaller than 20BB at the time of purchase, and usually set a cut-off at between 25BB-40BB.

The following blind structure begins each player with 200 Big Blinds (relatively deep), and has consistent blind increases that range from 33% to 50%, averaging 40%::

L1 50/100
L2 75/150
L3 100/200
L4 150/300
remove T25 chips
L5 200/400
L6 300/600 (optional end re-buys - 33BB)
L7 400/800
L8 600/1200
break (optional end re-buys - 17BB)
L9 800/1600
L10 1100/2200
L11 1500/3000
L12 2000/4000
remove T100/T500 chips
L13 3000/6000
L14 4000/8000 *** typical EOT
L15 6000/12000
L16 8000/16000
L17 10000/20000

So the typical tournament will last no longer than 14-15 blind levels. The assigned blind level times will dicate how long the tournament will last:

15 minute blinds = 3:40 hours plus breaks
20 minute levels = 4:50 hours plus breaks
25 minute levels = 6:00 hours plus breaks

Nothing wrong with blind level times that aren't in increments of 5, either -- if you want the event to last around 4+ hours, use 17 or 18 minute levels.

Note that your structure also finishes in around 14 blind levels. The biggest differences between your structure and the one above is that your structure a) doubles the blinds with a 100% increase right out of the gate, cutting stacks in half in just 15 or 20 minutes, and b) contains a wider range of blind increases -- 25% to 67%, excluding that early 100% jump --averaging over 51% (vs just 40%).
Some things in this structure I agree with... several I disagree with... the first one is that I absolutely DO NOT like using T1ks for chipping up T25s. We are starting with roughly 35ish chips (per player) and you are removing 120 chips from play and replacing it with 3! So we lost 1/3 of total chips... the T100 is your work horse and already has been in a 50/100 starting structure... 25 x 120 =3000/ plus extra 100 per for round up = 4000 (0 players) I prefer 30 T100 and 2 T500s for this chip up... more work horse chips = less change making.

I also don't like starting @ level 1 being 50/100... if we are following the 200 BB rule... now we have to double our 10k stack to 20k... I understand it avoids the award 100% increase at level two from t25/t50 to T50/t100... can also be avoided if extra anal, buy putting in T25/T75 level... can also help avoid the large jump.

Other clique... I don't like onky 1 level after keeping the t500s... why not simply move the chip up one more round and get rid of the T100s and T500s at the same time.

Food for thought
 
Some things in this structure I agree with... several I disagree with... the first one is that I absolutely DO NOT like using T1ks for chipping up T25s. We are starting with roughly 35ish chips (per player) and you are removing 120 chips from play and replacing it with 3! So we lost 1/3 of total chips... the T100 is your work horse and already has been in a 50/100 starting structure... 25 x 120 =3000/ plus extra 100 per for round up = 4000 (0 players) I prefer 30 T100 and 2 T500s for this chip up... more work horse chips = less change making.

I also don't like starting @ level 1 being 50/100... if we are following the 200 BB rule... now we have to double our 10k stack to 20k... I understand it avoids the award 100% increase at level two from t25/t50 to T50/t100... can also be avoided if extra anal, buy putting in T25/T75 level... can also help avoid the large jump.

Other clique... I don't like onky 1 level after keeping the t500s... why not simply move the chip up one more round and get rid of the T100s and T500s at the same time.

Food for thought
Post up your structure so folks can learn from it.

I myself stick to T500 now, as I like it the most
 
Some things in this structure I agree with... several I disagree with... the first one is that I absolutely DO NOT like using T1ks for chipping up T25s. We are starting with roughly 35ish chips (per player) and you are removing 120 chips from play and replacing it with 3! So we lost 1/3 of total chips... the T100 is your work horse and already has been in a 50/100 starting structure... 25 x 120 =3000/ plus extra 100 per for round up = 4000 (0 players) I prefer 30 T100 and 2 T500s for this chip up... more work horse chips = less change making.

I also don't like starting @ level 1 being 50/100... if we are following the 200 BB rule... now we have to double our 10k stack to 20k... I understand it avoids the award 100% increase at level two from t25/t50 to T50/t100... can also be avoided if extra anal, buy putting in T25/T75 level... can also help avoid the large jump.

Other clique... I don't like onky 1 level after keeping the t500s... why not simply move the chip up one more round and get rid of the T100s and T500s at the same time.

Food for thought
I heard you were super anal!! Do you still have those beads I gave you for Christmas?
 
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